Wedding Guest Dress Part 2. Translating My Toile into Pattern Pieces

I’ve spent a looooong afternoon cutting out pattern pieces and I can say with certainty that this fabric is a slippery little so-and-so, which makes me nervous about sewing it up! However, for now we’ll pretend that’s not going to be an issue…

So, I chopped up my toile along the seam lines and used these to create templates. As the photos below show, the final toile and the initial pattern pieces I had worked from weren’t all that different but there were some changes;


After seam allowances there’s not much in the differences so it was flattering to learn my very first Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) was fairly accurate! The photo on the right shows my toile on top of the FBA template I made.

These are the completed templates. The solid black outline doesn’t have seam allowances so the red dashes and black dots are where I measured 1.5cm (black dots) or 1cm (red dashes) for the seams.


I cut out my first ‘set’ and took the time to pattern match the side seam before realising the dart I’d added to the bust made that a fruitless pursuit! I also realised that I needed to add more length to the front bodice section along the side seam, so I added a bit to my template;


Then came what seemed like hours of smoothing, pinning, cutting, refining and duplicating. Luckily, the F1 was on so I had something to keep me entertained (Vettel won! Yay!) but it was still a tedious job. I cut each piece out separately as well, rather than cutting two at a time by folding the fabric because the slipperiness made me wary. I chose to line the bodice in the same fabric for a couple of reasons, including that I don’t have any navy lining fabric to hand but I don’t want to delay the project any further…!

Unfortunately, when you’re working on a full length dress and 6 metres of fabric, you’re limited as to where you can work. Hence the kitchen floor and I became well acquainted…


Fortunately I realised after I took this photo that I’d laid the pattern pieces the wrong way around so the flowers would all have been pointing down! Phew! With these larger pieces I decided I’d go ahead with folding the fabric in half but it was still a painstaking process.

Trusty Pins: can I just say thank you. You don’t get enough credit but without you there would be much more frustration, many more mistakes (and perhaps one or two less ‘ouch!’ moments). Scissors: I’m sorry but you’re getting replaced. Blunt scissors ain’t got no business in dis neighbourhood.

Tomorrow, we sew!




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